Feb 2019

The idea is that a healthy skin barrier is the best way to fight fast ageing, pollution and environmental aggressions. This is why we use a mix of a marine enzyme (to help strengthen the oil / ceramide barrier) and a natural prebiotic (to help strengthen the good bacteria  / microflora barrier).

Therefore, we decided to avoid the usage of molecules that disturb or refine the skin barriers like fruit acids, peels or retinol. We cannot profess the idea of strengthening the skin and at the same time using retinol or fruit acids to refine its barriers (think of redness, flakiness, sensitivity and necessary SPF when under retinol or after a peel). We know that our high concentration formulations are clinically proven to have visible results on skin texture, tone, glow and overall beauty without irritation. In a way, it is “the end of the no pain, no gain” era and more and more dermatologists and plastic surgeons are thinking the same.

In my younger years, I used to use Vitamin A (or retinol) in its different forms…

I used Retinoic Acid (which is the harshest form) under prescription when I was a teenager to fight acne (it was extremely efficient but it was a nightmare for one year, with me experiencing super-red and super-flaky skin – not a good look!) and, in my later years, I used Retinol in its cosmetic form when I grew older.

Every time I used it, my skin reacts quickly and I experienced a lot of redness, especially when I use the harshest version (Retinoic Acid). Personally, it has never been one of my favourite actives even if I knew that it was the favorite of a lot of the dermatologists that I knew.

My life has been made of cycles of abrasion/healing to get results: first in terms of treating acne and then, later, to fight scars and fine lines. More recently, however, I have decided that I will concentrate rather on healing/strengthening my skin – and not doing the opposite. Not only did I stop using retinol, but I also stopped using glycolic acids, peels, lasers, etc. Instead, I have concentrated only on strengthening my skin. This thinking, essentially, was the beginning of Orveda.


In terms of its efficacy and greatest benefits…

I believe retinol is effective in giving quick results especially in photo-aged skins (people who have spent a bit too much time in the sun). It is effective in speeding skin regeneration and boosts collagen production and it also strongly exfoliates the skin. 


I decided consciously not to use retinol in Orveda’s formulations…

The concept of Orveda is all about strengthening rather than aggressing: working with the skin, not against it. The idea behind Orveda is to rely on highly-concentrated, different actives (some acting on texture and collagen production, others on skin tone and glow, and others on skin barriers, including microflora) rather than to rely on one molecule that is too harsh (even if it is efficient) and requires heavy usage of SPF and thick moisturizers to heal the irritation that comes with it… Be sure to use products with Vitamin A / Retinol only at night

Use it 2 times a week (only) at the beginning

You need to use a SPF during the day (Watch this space for one we are developing!!!)

We recommend using The Prebiotic Emulsion (which has been successfully tested on stripped skins), layered with our Overnight Skin Recovery Masque to help calm the irritation and to heal skin’s moisture barriers.


In terms of retinol’s future in (the future of) skincare…

Many companies are working on gentler versions that are less irritating, or not irritating at all… If one day there is a version that has zero irritation properties but still has the same regeneration power, then why not use it?


My advice to people who are using products containing retinol is the following:

 

  1. Be sure to use products with Vitamin A/Retinol only at night
  2. Use it 2 times a week (only) at the beginning
  3. You need to use a SPF during the day (Watch this space for one we are developing!!!)
  4. We recommend using The Prebiotic Emulsion (which has been successfully tested on stripped skins), layered with our Overnight Skin Recovery Masque to help calm the irritation and to heal skin’s moisture barriers.

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